• Home
  • A Guide to Fitting Tracks

A Guide to Fitting Tracks

First Steps 

Like all good DIY projects, we recommend gathering what you need first. 

For fixing tracks you'll need:

  • Fixings according to the material you are attaching the track to, and the number of brackets supplied.
  • Drill
  • Screwdriver
  • Bradawl
  • Straight edge e.g ruler
  • Pencil
  • Tape measure
  • Hammer
  • Setting tool (optional) 

Fixing Top-Fix Tracks to the underside of a pelmet board

Space the top fix brackets evenly along the track – the brackets at the outside should be between 7 & 10cms from the ends with the remainder equally spaced – typically between 45cms and 50cms apart. The brackets simply “Klick” onto the track. Support the track using a spare friend or spouse so that it runs along the centre of the board and secure with 4x25mm wood screws.  If your pelmet board is supported by brackets these may get in the way of the track run. In this case space the track downwards with pelmet board spacers or small blocks of the same thickness as the brackets and use a longer screw. 

Fixing Top-Fix Tracks to the ceiling

Using a tape measure and a straight edge mark the ceiling where the track will run and attach the track to the ceiling with just 2 brackets by screwing directly into the plasterboard. Use a bradawl to mark the position of the other bracket holes and then take down the track. The type of fixings to use is entirely your judgement according to the soundness of your ceiling and the weight of the curtains. 

Fixing Face-Fix Tracks 

We usually measure the window recess and then add 30% to it. That will give us the length of the track we need: i.e. a 100cm wide window needs 130cm track with 15cms overhang each side for your “stack back” (The area for your curtains to park in the open position) 

Then measure the distance between the head of the recess and the ceiling. Divide that by 2 and that should be the height of the top of your track (maximum 20cms above the window) 

The first bracket should be 5cms in from the end of the track and the others evenly spaced between. I have provided you with sufficient brackets (every 25cms) to hang medium weight curtains up to a maximum of 10lbs per foot on the track, so light weight curtains and sheers will need a bracket every 50cms based on a solid wall. If you are fitting to a plasterboard wall it is sensible to spread the load and add more brackets. It is also important to fit your track level by a spirit level, but if you are fitting for floor length curtains and the floor drops away to one side by a little, you can set your track to the floor 

The type of fixings to use is entirely your judgement according to the soundness of your wall and the weight of the curtains. 

Once your brackets are in position, snap the track carefully into the brackets. If it does not snap in easily, back-off the screws holding the nylon grip in place slightly and try again. The track can be slid from side to side to adjust for final position, and then tighten up the small screws on the bottom of the bracket to lock in place. 

Trimming the track down and adding extra carriers/removing excess carriers 

To trim the track, you can use a standard hacksaw or baby hacksaw. The track is aluminium so it is quite easy to cut – check your blade first – it should not have any missing teeth! Before you cut, slide the carriers to the opposite end of the track, then on the end that you are cutting take off the end-cap by twisting the fixed eye through 90° and lift it out (note where it came out of the end-cap)– then slide out the end-cap from the end of the track. Put the twist-eye back into the track but further down near the carriers that you just slid out of the way; this will stop them sliding out of the track accidentally. Cut the track at your mark, clean with a file, re-fit the endcap, and put the twist-eye back into the endcap and lock into place. Job done! (TIP: do not try to cut the track in place after it has been fitted as this will loosen your fixings). 

Note that with the endcap off you can remove any excess carriers, or indeed add extras. However, you can add extra carriers by just snapping them into the track. It takes a bit of force, so you might find it easier just to take off the endcap as previously described and pop them in from the end. You need to do this evenly from both ends as the track is supplied with 2 stop carriers which prevent spring back or curtain creep. Your leading-edge curtain hooks should always be attached to these carriers first and the curtain hung from centre outwards. 

Please make sure you fit this product in a safe manner. Make sure your step ladder or hop-up is locked and safe on an even floor. Please check for hidden pipes and wires. (TIP: many water pipes are plastic and will not be found with a detector, so feel the wall with your hand and if the heating is on, the wall will feel warm. Look at the radiator below the window. If the pipes go into the wall be suspicious. If they go into the floor, you may be safe. Wires can run horizontally and vertically from an electric point and if the circuit is live, will be picked up with a wall scanner). Many of the tools required to complete this task are sharp dangerous and loud and debris from drilling and cutting may damage your eyes. Please take appropriate precautions and ensure your children are not running around you when you are up the ladder! You are buying this product because you are a competent tradesman or DIYer. If you are neither of those, consider asking or employing someone who is to do the job for you. 

The track will last you a lifetime if you look after it – periodically hoover the dust out of it and lubricate only with pure silicone spray twice a year. Do not allow paint near it – If you are decorating take the track down and refit it when you have finished. Paint spilt on or in the track will stop it working straight away and nullify the warranty.